It’s generally agreed that ceviche originated in Peru and Ecuador — countries that separately developed the tradition of eating seafood raw after marinating it in citrus along with other ingredients like chiles and onions. Mexico was also not far behind in developing its own types of ceviche, where it is especially popular in Veracruz and in coastal areas of the northwest. This method of preparing seafood produces an opacity that is sometimes referred to as “cooked,” though it’s far different from the denaturation of proteins entailed with heat.
Other cultures have raw seafood traditions, including the crudo of Venice, poke of Hawai’i, kinilaw of the Philippines, and sashimi of Japan, a country that has heavily influenced the ceviches and tiraditos of Peru in a mashup of flavors with Japanese cuisine. Today’s ceviches may have been originally inspired by the escabeches of Spain (also popular in Jamaica), which douse cooked seafood with vinegar and vegetables.
There’s never been a better time to eat ceviches in New York City. We’ve never had so many, not only in Mexican, Peruvian, and Ecuadorian restaurants but in contemporary bistros that have adopted internationalized menus. And ceviches have proven a perfect way to enjoy the freshest local seafood. Here are some of the best places to find it and its close cousins.
Health experts consider dining out to be a high-risk activity for the unvaccinated; it also poses a risk for the vaccinated, especially in areas with substantial COVID transmission.
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