Frank the Tank files on Terrance Brennan's recession baby Bar Artisanal this week, and while he awards it one star, the piece reads like a takedown:
"Take away the cheese and what’s left is a calculating, somewhat cynical operation, connected to the Hilton Garden Inn, that’s not all that reflective of Mr. Brennan, who guides but doesn’t actually own it. Bar Artisanal pillages and repackages current trends with astonishing thoroughness, commanding attention for that alone. If restaurants could be preserved in amber and tucked away for future students of gustatory anthropology, this might be the one to save and label, 'New York City, circa 2010.'...
....students would be instructed to take note of its name, which indulges the current habit of trying to persuade diners that they’re not committing to anything...Bar Artisanal doesn’t overlook the upscale, inventive hamburger craze...The pissaladières, baked in a wood-burning oven, reach out to the ever more rapacious ranks of pizza hounds...I expect ramen to show up shortly, and fried chicken soon after that. Best not to leave any fad unfed."But hey, at least it's better than Trigo, right? [NYT]
The Cuozz decides it's time to file on Boulud's little Bowery project DBGB Kitchen & Bar:: "...chef Jim Leikin's kitchen is clicking, if not yet on all cylinders, on most of them... DBGB is working out DBugs....But where the flops come in dribbles, the hits come in torrents. Boulud wasn't kidding when he promised 'interesting sausage' last winter." [NYP]
No surprises here: Sarah DiGregorio finds excellent food and a surfeit of food world VIPs at Marea: "...there is some very, very serious cooking going on at Marea...pastas are not only the most reasonably priced dishes on the menu ($17–$27), they're also so beautiful it's hard to believe they were crafted by human hands. Each piece is so lovely and singular that you find yourself staring at them the way parents marvel at the toes and fingers of a newborn." [VV]
The RG heads out to Williamsburg this week to award three stars to one month old Mexican spot Mesa Coyoacan: "Most of the tacos at Mesa Coyoacan taste like they're straight out of Mexico City. They're $9, three to an order, and most are excellent...It's hard to find a good black mole sauce, but Garcia's is phenomenally flavorful." [NYDN]
THE ELSEWHERE: Frank Bruni is charmed by Diner, Ligaya Mishan spends her column inches reviewing chicken salad at Danny Meyer's concession stand Public Fare, Tables for Two learns there's a lot to like at Minetta Tavern, Jay Cheshes finds high prices and small portions at the salon at Per Se, Gael Greene has a short preview of The Standard Grill, and Sietsema heads to Queens to discover mixed results at the Rudar Soccer Club.
THE BLOGS: The Food Doc deems Sho Shaun Hergatt incredibly delicious, the Pink Pig declares DBGB a winner, Ed Levine gives an A to Locanda Verde's breakfast, NYC Food Guy gets a mixed bag at S'Mac, Plate of the Day thinks that Döner comes up a little short, The Hungry Roach says that you'll be fine as long as you stick to the basics at Baoguette/Pho Sure, New York Knife & Fork has mixed feelings about Bare Burger, NY Journal files a rave of Locanda Verde, and Food in Mouth especially enjoys the french fries at his 1700 calorie meal at Checkers.
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