
Midtown: Twenty years after first opening at its Upper East Side location, megarestaurateur Charlie Palmer has moved his flagship restaurant Aureole to a shiny new spot at One Bryant Park. So far, Chris Lee's cuisine is earning raves from early reviewers. While there are reports of a few missteps here and there, things seem remarkably positive overall (believe it, we looked for the pans). It remains to be seen if the Upper East Side regulars will make trek down to Times Square or if the nearby office workers will keep flocking to the newest addition to the nabe, but for now, some early opinions:
The Great News: The Feedbag pens a quick rave, giving a special shoutout to Yee's dessert program: "I stopped in (on day 2!) of the new Aureole, and it’s gorgeous, with a huge, uncrowded bar area and a lively dining room that couldn’t be farther in spirit from the east side townhouse that had become a warehouse for septuagenarian grandees. The food was surprising, though. I thought Chris Lee, working with Charlie Palmer, was going to just transplant the menu, but he’s made it even more ambitious and complex, with more going on on the plate. While occasionally he falters like any ambitious chef of his caliber, even his mistakes do him credit. And the things that work are really masterful. And Jennifer Yee’s dessert program is likewise ambitious. Her best stuff manages to somehow be sweet and delicious while still challenging the top male dessert chefs in their high-tech deconstruction derby. On the whole it was a great experience. This is a three-star experience through and through." [FeedBag]
The Mostly Good News: Despite not being convinced that One Bryant Park is a suitable home for the restaurant, she writes that there's much to like about the food at the new location: "They didn’t have to drive me kicking and screaming to the new Aureole but I confess I arrived in a cocoon of resistance. It’s always a wrench to change zip codes but the voyage from a cozy little townhouse in establishment country to this lofty automobile showroom space boldly looking out at the flotsam of 42nd Street is disorienting. Very quickly on this evening in week one Lee’s intense play of flavors in our starters is winning me over. Miso-sake dressing makes it not just another tuna tartare. And the house-baked nori bread looks like slices of cinnamon roll. That’s fuss but brilliant fuss. For my taste, the halibut, with wonderful toasted potato gnocchi and corn in basil pesto is too cooked (though I admit we didn’t say how we wanted it). Restaurants everywhere are comforting the battered and financially shell-shocked with burgers. Aureole’s is a real contender. [InsatiableCritic]
The Good News: A Yelper gets in an early word on the a la carte bar room menu: "I was invited to attend the Friends and Family "pre-opening" night at Aureole on Monday 6/22. It was their first night of service and it was impeccable. Everything - the decor, service, food and drinks - was inviting and well-planned. The staff was knowledgable and friendly, it's the kind of place where you feel very well taken care of. The menu in the bar room was modern yet unpretentious. My boyfriend and I had the pastrami pork sliders, tuna tartare with Miso dressing, pasta and the flank steak, followed by 3 sorbets/gelato. Aureole is a perfect spot for a date, a fun group dinner or a drink and a lite snack at the modern well-stocked bar. Highly recommended! [Yelp]
The Brief, Good News: @otmdish writes: "Dinner last nite Aureole. Sexy space. Lively bar. Intrvd Charlie Palmer, Chris Lee. excel. fluke, snapper crudo. lots more" [Twitter]
—Matt Duckor






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