Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews wd~50, Wylie Dufresne's celebrated molecular gastronomic laboratory on Clinton Street. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 8-1Tomorrow's review will be one to see. Any way it goes, from a devastating one star to a long-time-coming three spot, this review will be the first major update on Wylie Dufresne's jewel box in a number of years. The most logical reasoning has Bruni coming up with three stars tomorrow—the restaurant is sitting on a two star review at present, a 2003 Grimes ditty, and since then the venue, and the chef, have come to be known as the gold standard in New York for molecular gastronomy. If in 2003 Dufrense got two stars for the sheer adventure of it all, today he deserves three for staying atop his game as many others have made failed bids for his title. But three isn't the only way this could go. If he wants to shut the place down, El Brunchisimo will slap it with a star and call it dated; he could also reaffirm the two, using the above reasoning to reaffirm its current status. Bottom line for us this week is that Bruni three-starred Dovetail two weeks ago, a no-linens Upper West Sider. wd~50 is at least as good, though perhaps a bit more challenging, so we'll take the loss if there's a disagreement. Eater's got a hundie on three stars.
One Star: 5-1
Two Stars: 3-1
Three Stars: 2-1 √√
Four Stars: 5,000-1
· wd~50 [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
√√ denotes the Eater bet.






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