Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews La Sirene, the nine-month-old mini bistro in West Soho. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:

Zero Stars: 3-1
One Star: 4-1 √√
Two Stars: 15-1
Three Stars: 75-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1

La Sirene is a sliver of a restaurant, not an obvious review candidate by a margin, and this review will put it on the map. It opened softly last April and officially in May and remains, legitimately or not, B.Y.O. That it's getting the Bruni treatment means the man is taken with the place; it's going to be a love letter regardless of the star count, focusing on the authenticity of the cooking and chef, Didier Pawlicki. To the question of whether it'll get a goose egg/"Good" or one star, it could go either way and as the place is sub-20 seats and without table cloths, the odds do favor the rare positive good egg. That said, Eater is going with the one star—Chef Didier has got some chops, and we do love a good Cinderella story.
· La Sirene [NYT; after 8:00 PM]

√√ denotes the Eater bet.