Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Harry Cipriani, the Cipriani family flagship in the Sherry Netherland Hotel, just reopened following a two-year renovation. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:

Zero Stars: 4-1
One Star: 2-1 √√
Two Stars: 4-1
Three Stars: 50-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1

In that Cipriani is untakedownable, this review doesn't come with the make-or-break implications that accompany many other reviews. Plus, Cipriani isn't exactly the kind of restaurant at which your average eater has a standing Thursday night reservation. But H-Cip is without question a New York institution, and we do know the Bruni likes to have his way with these places. So for that reason, tomorrow will be a show. Past reviews, at the Times and elsewhere are irrelevant here, as they're dated and won't inform the Bruni's thinking. What will matter, however, is his two stars for the Four Seasons, a demotion for that restaurant, but also a bar set for uptown, very expensive New York society places. With that said, we do love Harry's, but viz the Four Seasons, it's not prettier and certainly does not trump its neighbor in food categories. Therefore, while there are, indeed, other ways this one could go, we're taking one star.
· Harry Cipriani [NYT; after 8:00 PM]

√√ denotes the Eater bet.