Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Gemma, the casual Italian restaurant attached to the Bowery Hotel. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:

Zero Stars: 4-1
One Star: EVEN √√
Two Stars: 9-1
Three Stars: 75-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1

Gemma will be the third Italian restaurant the Frankster has reviewed in five weeks. Franny's got a deuce and Bar Stuzzichini got one. If you're plotting these points on a graph, you're thinking Gemma is getting a donut. But this isn't a special enough occasion for the Bruni to take the zilch train out of the garage and the pizza at Gemma really isn't bad. Plus we've got to take into account the pedigree of owners Eric Goode and Sean MacPherson—and the fact that their last effort, Waverly Inn, escaped with a star. No chance Gemma is an upgrade from Waverly, we say, and Franny's this isn't, so we're taking the odds on one star, looking for emphasis on the scene, the owners, and the pizza.
· Gemma [NYT; after 8:00 PM]

√√ denotes the Eater bet.