Kalina, 4/3/07.

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, children of all ages, we bring you the new hotness in barbecue land, Fette Sau. Spuyten Duyvil proprietors Kim and Joe Carroll own the joint, housed in a onetime auto body shop, and they've got Matt Lang (Pearl Oyster Bar) running their 700 lbs.-capacity smoker. Meat is sold here by the pound, on butcher's paper, and the booze emphasis is on bourbon, a combination which absolutely ensures that you'll leave feeling porky and completely sullied. Hotness notice: they're running out of meat around 9 PM daily at this juncture, so do go early.